Greetings, to my fellow skincare lovers,
It has been a minute since I have last been here, and this blog post has got me overly excited. About a week ago, I posted on my Instagram story what you would like me to write about next, Active Ingredients or Budget Products? 64% voted for Active Ingredients.
So, allow me to dive right in. What is an Active Ingredient?
Active Ingredients are the key, ingredients in skincare products that work, to address the skin concern you have. These have been scientifically studied and proven to have the desired effects that you anticipate, Skincare products with Active Ingredients that work, miracles.
In this blog, I will go over the details of some of the most popular Active Ingredients. Keep in mind, some Active Ingredients, are currently trending like Vitamin C or Retinoid. However, these have been around for centuries, and work the same way it has, 50 years ago. I will cover a little, about what each Active Ingredient is, and, some of the most popular ones within that group of Active Ingredients, what it is good for and its benefits, and, the percentage that you could use these in.
Let’s start with, Alpha-hydroxy acids (AHAs) which are found in foods and animals and are well known for their use in Skincare products. These products aid in the reduction of wrinkles and improve the overall look and feel of the skin.
Here are some types of, Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) commonly used in products available throughout the skincare industry. These include:
- Citric – found in citrus fruits
- Glycolic – found in sugar cane
- Lactic – found in sour milk
- Malic – found in apples
- Tartaric – found in grapes
Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) like Citric, glycolic, and lactic acids are some of the most used ingredients.
Let’s get down to the nitty-gritty;
Citric Acid is, widely found in plants and animals and, particularly in citrus fruits, an antioxidant-rich acid, which is, commonly used for premature aging. Citric Acid, helps the overall texture and appearance of the skin, by mildly exfoliating the skin and assisting in new cell turnover. It can be a little harsh on some sensitive skin types. However, a low concentration is a great way to test it out on sensitive skin.
One of the most popular most exciting and, most researched active ingredient, is Vitamin C, also known as L-ascorbic Acid.An antioxidant that protects skin cells from damaging free radicals and is a cult favourite. Vitamin C boosts the production of collagen. Reducing, the signs of ageing, minimising erythema, (redness) and inflammation. Helps lighten hyperpigmentation and, dark spots, creating a brightening complex in your skin. The concentration level for Vitamin C is anywhere between 10%-20%. The recommended levels required in your skincare are at least the minimum of 10%. The concentration level is vital. The best type of Vitamin C, is combined, with other antioxidants, that contain Ferulic Acid and Vitamin E. Vitamin C is suitable for all skin types.
Lactic Acid comes from sour milk, another common type of Alpha-Hydroxy Acid (AHAs) known in skincare. It is an acid peel that brightens, smooths and evens skin texture, minimising the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, exfoliating the top layer of your skin, the superficial layer(stratum corneum). Can be purchased in concentration levels of 1%-50%. Remember, the higher the percentage, the more potent and irritable the product can be. I recommend starting on a low concentration level (if you have never used it before), acid peels can be quiet aggravating to the skin and are recommended 1-2 times a week and suitable for all skin types.
Glycolic Acid, is derived from sugarcane, and classed as the strongest, active ingredient in the Alpha-Hydroxy Acids group. It penetrates into the, deeper layers of the skin, the papillary dermis, the uppermost layer of the dermis, which sits below the epidermis. The concentration levels for Glycolic Acid is anywhere between 1%-70%. Given that it is a highly penetrative acid, I highly recommend starting with a low dose.
On that note, using any Alpha-Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) can make your skin more sensitive to the sun because it is peeling away at the dead skin cells, (the top layer of the skin), leaving the new skin cells more vulnerable to UV damage. So be sure to use SPF50+ with broad-spectrum sunscreen.
That brings me to the next commonly used acid group.
Beta Hydroxy Acids, also known as BHAs, designed for daily use. Unlike, Alpha-Hydroxy acids which are water-soluble. Beta-Hydroxy Acids are oil-soluble and are, derived from Willow Bark. Ideal ingredient for acne-prone skin, aiding in clearing existing acne, removing blackheads and, preventing new acne or blackheads from forming. It also corrects dark spots without irritating the skin due to its anti-inflammatory properties. The most popular is the one obtained from Willow bark, which is known as Salicylic Acid. The ingredients in Salicylic Acid should contain anywhere between 0.5%-1.5%. Although known mildly to dry the skin, it is always best to moisturise when using this active ingredient.
Done reading yet? I hope not!
Another popular one on the market, Tretinoin (Retinoic Acid) a Vitamin A derived cream. Originated to assist with people suffering from severe cystic acne or, skin conditions such as Psoriasis, and, in more recent times, used in photo-ageing, fine lines and wrinkles and some forms of skin cancer. Increasing production of collagen. Pigment producing cells are reduced, providing more even and smooth textured skin. It could be irritating if starting on the wrong dose of Tretinoin, especially for sensitive skin or if you are exposed, to the sun. There are over the counter topical retinoids that you can purchase in chemists and supermarkets. Only the more potent topical retinoids are absorbed and are active, are available on prescription. Remember to take the advice from your dermatologist if on such treatment and apply SPF50+ broad-spectrum sunscreen daily.
Humectants are water-loving ingredients that draw moisture into your skin. The most common humectants to look out for, are Glycerin/Glycerol, Hyaluronic Acid, Sorbital and Urea. Glycerin is a clear liquid that naturally occurs in the body (as well as in animals or plants) or Vegetable Glycerin derived from coconut, soy or palm. Our skin cells produce Hyaluronic Acid naturally to keep and, maintain the moisture levels in our skin and joints. It is the key to instantly plump and hydrating skin which also exists in dermal fillers, i.e. lip injections. It plays a vital role in maintaining healthy connective tissue, governs skin elasticity, cell migration, wound healing, and, inflammation. Hyaluronic Acid is naturally produced in the body or, from plant and wheat fermentation. In the case of fermentation, wheat is fermented, with specific bacteria, then purified and precipitated. This process extracts the Hyaluronic Acid naturally present in wheat-producing a naturally derived Hyaluronic Acid.
A favourite of mine is Ceramides. Not only does it support the skin barrier, but it also restores the hydration in your skin. Ceramides are lipids (fats) found naturally in high concentrations in the uppermost layers of skin. Ceramides help hold the skin together by forming a protective layer, it looks a bit like bricks and mortar, with the dead cells as the bricks and the lipid matrix as the mortar, holding it all together. Ageing and, sun damage reduce the effectiveness of your skin’s natural ceramides. It can eventually weaken your skin’s barrier. People with sensitive/eczema type skin, also lack ceramide content. Ceramides in skin care products help restore the barrier of the skin and increase hydration. Your skin will feel more plump, hydrated and smooth. Generally, you will see the word Ceramides mentioned in skincare packaging like moisturisers.
On-trend and spoken about on every social media platform recently, is an antioxidant that we obtain through eating or consuming Vitamin B. It is known as Vitamin B3, or the most popular name, Niacinimide. A water-soluble vitamin that works, with the natural substance of your skin. An ideal ingredient for acne-prone skin, premature signs of aging, repairs damaged skin barrier and brightens skin appearance. The concentration levels of this ingredient are anywhere between 1%-20%. Although some brands have 10% in which case tried and tested and is very safe to use. Being a versatile Vitamin, Niacinimide is recommended, for use morning and evening.
On that note, I’ve finally reached the end of this blog post and, I would just like to remind you, that sunscreen should be added as your last step in your skincare routine and prior to makeup application. Be sure to use something with at least SPF 50+ Broad Spectrum. That’s it, my fellow skincare lovers, I hope this blog post helps you choose your skincare products with a lot more ease and confidence. Unsure of what ingredients you are lacking in your skincare routine, Book in a Skin Analysis session at Skin Lab Sydney to discuss your needs.
Until then,
Tanya xx
Beauty Therapist
Skin Lab Sydney